With the £100 tankful upon us, the latest petrol and diesel fuel additives from long-time engine care experts STP, are a timely tonic to Britain’s besieged motorists, with the onus on generating better fuel consumption from performance cars.

The faster-acting formulations of STP’s new and improved petrol and diesel fuel additives, on sale now from the nation’s forecourts and accessory shops, are more capable than ever of improving fuel consumption, boosting engine efficiency and helping to reduce engine emissions.

When added to a tankful of petrol or diesel, the highly-concentrated STP formulations dissolve carbon deposits from the combustion and fuel delivery system. These build-up in engines of all ages during everyday driving conditions and are the culprits of fuel wastage, loss of power, and a steady reduction in engine efficiency.

Handily-packed in new 200ml bottles, with a long and narrow spout for easy pouring into a tankful of fuel, STP’s newly-formulated range includes a brace of new restorative additives, Petrol Injector Cleaner and Diesel Injector Cleaner (£5.49), and two preventative formulations designed to maintain engine efficiency – Petrol Treatment and Diesel Treatment (£3.99).

For best results, STP advises one application of Petrol Treatment or Diesel Treatment every 1000 miles or 1250 miles, respectively. In the case of Petrol Injector Cleaner and Diesel Injector Cleaner – formulated for engines that have not been regularly treated – the recommended application is lengthened to every 3000 miles.

All STP additives are backed with exhaustive research that proves their benefits of usage, and are suitable for all classic and modern engines, including those with catalytic converters.

STP’s latest fuel additives and engine care products are widely available from forecourts, major stores including Halfords, and motoring accessory shops nationwide.

There is very little I need or want to change about my Mk1, I feel it has the balance of things just right. There is however one thing that has niggled me from the start: the steering wheel. The original Ford effort was just too large and too skinny for it to give the nice grip and feedback I need when I am pumping my crazy arms to make the car dance a little.

The old wheel kinda had a certain charm about it because it was very retro and had a standard feel about it, so it tied in with the car’s old school yet standard-style interior and helped to fool people into thinking the car was packing less heat than it does. But all this style only goes so far with me, I need my performance goodies and I definitely craved a smaller wheel.

Problem is, while I am focused on all things fast, I can’t ruin the carefully-considered interior. I couldn’t have anything horribly chintzy and modern. I didn’t want to be predictable and choose a run-of-the-mill Mountney wheel or an OMP one. I wanted something a little special, something that was built for vintage style, yet had a very ‘racer’ feel about it.

A tall order? You would think so, but I sat down and started to think and one name popped right up into my petrol-soaked mind. Moto-Lita! Moto-Lita has been around since the ’50s and in that time little has changed! Started and still run by owner and craftsman Simon, I had to get involved. They offer a range of hand-made wood or leather steering wheels – perfect!

The prestigious brand is the wheel of choice for old school legends like Stirling Moss, and now modern-day ones like me! After much deliberation I opted to have Simon make me a gorgeous, dished, three spoke, hand-stitched leather one, with an old-style Ford logo. It feels totally perfect and I am glad I took my time in choosing the Moto-Lita, try and tell me it doesn’t look at home. It feels class in my hands and I have to admit there is a hint of smugness when I stare at my unique steering wheel when sat in traffic.

When it comes to driving, that has improved too. It sounds obvious to say you need your steering wheel when driving, but I find the car much more controllable with this fitted, it just feels so positive and ‘right’. I have the grip and slip I need for when I am throwing the lock on or letting it self-centre when exiting a corner. I love it.

The Mk1 is now going to enjoy a much needed break in my folks garage back ‘oop north’. I am going to focus my attention for the next month or so on a sneaky imported Ford I am having brought in, my track car, a Ka, and breaking the Focus. So, as you can tell, there really is no rest for the wicked.

Shelby was integral to all things performance Ford in the US for almost 60 years, producing stunning performance vehicles from concepts to production models.

The designer, racing driver and entrepreneur was most well known for making the AC Motors-based Shelby Cobra and the Ford Mustang-based performance cars also known as Cobras. The AC Shelby Cobra made its first ever appearance 50 years ago this year.

Shelby most recently worked with Ford on the 2013 Shelby GT500 Mustang, and while working with SVT engineers at Sebring and the Arizona Proving Grounds, at times he drove for more than eight hours – at the ripe old age of 88. He was having so much fun, he didn’t want to stop.

He once said his energy and passion for performance products were always strongest when he was working with Ford.

Carroll Shelby’s last collaboration, the 2013 Ford Shelby GT500, produces 662bhp and 631lb/ft of torque, making it the most powerful production V8 engine in the world – a fitting tribute to a man who, just like us, didn’t think production Fords were fast enough!

Key moments in the history of Carroll Shelby and Ford Motor Company

•     1952: Shelby enters first race at the wheel of a Ford-powered hot rod
•     1962: Shelby tests his first Ford-powered AC 260 Roadster – the car that would become the Shelby Cobra. Shelby-American begins operations in Venice, Calif. Cobra production begins
•     1964: Ford asks Shelby to develop a high-performance Mustang derivative. First Shelby prototypes are built
•     1965: Shelby GT350 is introduced. Ford hires Shelby-American to oversee GT40 program. Hertz begins buying GT350H versions for its “rent-a-racer” program
•     1966: Ford GT40 Mark II wins Le Mans. First 1967 Shelby GT500s delivered
•     1967: Ford and Shelby-American win Le Mans, again. 1968 Shelby Mustang convertibles debut
•     1968: 1969 model year production begins
•     1969: Shelby Mustang production ends
•     1970: Ford and Shelby end their long-term racing agreement
•     2001: Carroll Shelby is invited by Ford to consult on GT40 Concept
•     2002: Ford green-lights production of Ford GT
•     2003: Ford invites Shelby to collaborate on a concept car that pays homage to original Shelby Cobra
•     2004: Ford Shelby Cobra Concept steals the show at NAIAS. Ford asks Shelby to consult on a follow-up concept. Shelby announces it will build limited-edition Shelby Ford Expedition. Ford unveils Shelby GR-1 Concept
•     2006: Shelby GTH debuts at New York Auto Show
•     2007: GT500 name debuts
•     2008: First 2008 Ford Shelby GT500KR rolls off the line on Carroll Shelby’s 85th birthday. Partnering with Ford Racing, Shelby fields factory race team for the first time since 1969
•     2011: Debut of 662bhp, 631lb/ft 2013 Ford Shelby GT500, the most powerful production V8 engine in the world
•     2012: 2013 Ford Shelby GT500 sells at Barrett-Jackson for $350,000

Click the image to buy your CFS tickets!

Classic Ford Show 2012, the UK’s premier old Ford event, will be taking place on Sunday 27 May 2012 at Santa Pod Raceway and advance tickets are still on sale!

But be quick – the chance to save £3 per ticket by purchasing in advance ends on 22 May – so buy yours now!

Click here to visit the Classic Ford Show website for more details.

Click the image to buy your CFS tickets!

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After hours of rubbing down, sanding, filling and some more rubbing down, the tired old Saph shell was nearly ready for a few coats of primer. The goal for this month was to finally get some primer on it, but before that could happen I needed to finish off a couple of little bodywork issues.

The first of which was the distinct lack of rear bumper. I couldn’t believe just how scarce Sapphire bumpers have become, and how much money they command these days. Thankfully I managed to find an intact one at the right price on the internet so with Paypal as my friend it was soon bubble-wrapped up and heading towards my house.

When it arrived I was pleasantly surprised to see that it was in good nick, had all the fixings attached, and merely required a quick clean-up and rub down before it too would be ready for some primer. The front bumper and headlight blanking plates that I’d previously made also received the same treatment.

Then it was time to go shopping for the primer. I wanted high-build primer as it means I (or the bodyshop) can give it a quick flat over with some wet-and-dry paper to give a really smooth finish ready for the top coat. It also meant that it would cover up any discrepancies or light marks in body as it is quite thick and very forgiving. I also needed a can of etch primer to go over all the areas that I had rubbed down to bare metal, especially the bonnet.

So with my cheapo gazebo-cum-spray booth safely put up, the spray gun freshly cleaned out and ready for action, and the primer mixed up and raring to go, I fired up the compressor (sorry neighbours) and got to it. Rather than hit it all in one big coat (I’m usually the master at paint runs!), I decided, or attempted, to do it properly this time.

A quick dust coat all over first meant the heavier coat would take better, and it did. I actually surprised myself at how well it all came out – not too shabby even if I do say so myself. With the bodywork dry I even found time to give the engine bay a quick clean up and another quick coat of the satin black it had already been painted with. This will give me a nice clean base when it comes to start putting things back in for the final time.

From here I have a couple of options as to what to do next. I’m already writing a massive shopping list of things I need from the States to begin building the engine, the turbos are all packed and ready to be sent off to CR Turbos for all the work they need, and I’m currently contemplating colour choices and paintwork options so I can start to get it booked in to the bodyshop for a top coat (I need to sort the rear bumper mountings and rear arch extensions before that though), so it could be a busy time coming up and hopefully I’ll start to see some real progress over the next few months.

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Please be aware that this guide first appeared in our Summer 2008 issue, so the guide prices will have changed since publication. All other facts are reliable though!

Simply click on the image above to download the PDF document.

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If you’ve read the Staff Cars pages of our June issue (in the shops now…), you’ll have read about Luke’s top speed run in the mighty Trolley.

But what does hitting 183.99mph in a Fiesta look like?

This:

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Last update, I told you that top of my list of things to sort on the little Fez were the rusty rear arches. They weren’t too bad (I have seen a lot worse) but you know what the dreaded tin-rot is like and once it starts to set in, it really takes hold and can ruin your ride in a matter of months. So I knew I needed to do something about it rather urgently while it was still a relatively straightforward repair.

After seeing the results of other project vehicles within the Future Publishing stable (including Neil‘s now rather tidy-looking RST) I knew the kind of finish I wanted, and I knew the paint I needed to use to achieve this: Lesonal. I spoke to the guys at Lesonal about what I’d need to complete the job, and as I’m no paint-man I had absolutely no idea of the kind of quantities or products I would need. All I knew was that I wanted the rusty bubbles on the rear arches to disappear and the car have straight, smooth lines on the bodywork again.

To help me out Lesonal sent out one of their specialists to assess the car and advise me on products and how much of them I would need. With that in hand it was soon time to find someone who could tackle the job. I asked around the office (as you do), and it just happened that the editor of one of our sister titles, Classics Monthly, had just had his rather rare Peerless GT Coupe sprayed by Jason at State of Art Refinishing. A quick snout around the car later and you could tell the job was done by a man who knows exactly what he is doing. A man capable of producing finishes like that on horrible composite bodywork might be a bit overkill for just doing a pair of rusty rear arches on a Fiesta, but I’d rather have an ‘overkill’ approach than be left with a finish I’m never going to be happy with.

After speaking with Jason on the phone he seemed keen to get involved with the project, so a date was set and the car was dropped off for him to work his magic. All throughout the respray process Jason was sending me pictures to tease me with the progress. All of which meant I couldn’t wait to see the finished result for myself.

When I went to pick the car up I’d noticed that Jason had not only sorted the rear arches (and done a bloody good job of it too!) but he’d also gone round the car and sorted out numerous other little dings, dents, and scratches that it had too. Top man! The bonnet, front grille, front wings (one of which had a Jamie-spec knee-shaped dent in it) and the rear roof spoiler have all been rubbed down, had any dents or scratches removed and then resprayed in the Lesonal Imperial Blue paint.

Basically everything bar the roof has been painted. And the car looks a million times better for it – it looks brand new. Jason even found time to give the plastic bumper inserts a coat of satin black, which means that I don’t have to worry about getting the Back to Black out every time I wash the car and I haven’t got any fears of the plastics fading to a horrible greyish white either.

Overall I am really impressed with results, and in particular with Jason’s work ethic of ‘if it ain’t right, fix it’. Now all I need to do is give the car a bloody good polish and keep it clean, but I’m glad I’ve a car that’s worth polishing now. On a slightly more downbeat note I’ve noticed that the rear beam bushes are shot to pieces and the rear of the car is making one hell of a crashing sound every time I go anywhere near a pot hole. So that’ll need a set of Powerflex polybushes then…

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To give the big build a huge shove forward I sent the car over to Forge Motorsport so that their team and the clever bods at Hose Technik could sort out a full braided brake system and some hard boost pipes. I was well impressed when it arrived, not least because possibly the most dodgy ‘tow-man’ in history took my rather expensive rolling shell down to Forge. But besides the car arriving safely, what impressed me most was that the M&J lads had worked all night to get it painted, and on arrival at Forge the team just set about it!

Hose Technik relished the challenge of making up a proper race-spec system for it in record time too! They make some seriously nice off-the-peg replacement hoses, but can make things to suit your requirements, as they have done here. It really is slick and with them being proper lines, I know they are safe and strong so will last forever. The Forge fellas mocked up some boost pipes and will be sending them over shortly. When looking at the boost and water pipe layout, I was left scratching my head. The water pump to lower rad hose is often a big issue on ZT-converted cars. I previously ran an abortion of a hose that was chopped up and joined in around four places. Not ideal and certainly not pretty!

As luck would have it Roose Motorsport have a perfect solution for this, they stock a Zetec Turbo rad hose and besides the obvious Roose quality, it fits perfectly with no nasty kinks or bends. Problem solved and something you probably need to consider if you’re doing a ZT conversion yourself.

It really is a case of tying up loose ends now. The battery was originally mounted in the boot and on one side – I never really liked it and when I removed it, the plastic cracked. To save this happening again I got a neat alloy one from OBP. It fits in perfectly with the rest of the alloy parts on my interior and is now mounted behind the driver’s seat.It’s positioned at the lowest point of the car, so it will help weight distribution and the centre of gravity – especially with most Ford owners (i.e. my passengers) having an obvious love for pies, it helps even out the weight differences between my ‘race-spec’ athletic frame and the more chunky chaps on the Ford scene. In further anticipation for the succession of shakedowns and trackdays I am intent on doing, I have ordered some new rubber: some highly rated Yokohama A048, and more on those next month.

When the car returned back to SRMC from Forge, I went up for a big weekend of finishing the final bits. Matt and John did the painting, but I mucked in as best as I could. The finish was exactly the way I pictured it in my mind. I don’t know why people complain about watching paint dry, I found it incredibly exciting! The next stint saw the kit and doors back on. I stayed on my own one night, fiddling with the rad and cooler. Around 4am in the morning I stood back, feeling very content with my work. A real sense of pride and achievement. The pictures tell a story themselves – dig out your copy of Fast Ford issue 310 to see.

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